But like many of the stylistic developments in hip hop – such as its love-affair with luxury labels – it was the hustlers on the streets who can lay claim to pioneering the label in this new context. Their jackets were bulky and imposing, adding mass and presence to any frame. With its oversized cuts and rugged fabrics, Carhartt’s clothing has always chimed with the hyper-masculine ideals and aesthetics that have underpinned much of mainstream hip-hop. But few labels have had such widespread appeal as Carhartt, commanding attention and adoration on both coasts, from the likes of Nas and Naughty By Nature, as well as Tupac and Eazy-E. You could point to any number of workwear brands as an exemplar of this one facet of hip hop style: Timberland’s wheat-coloured boots have been an enduring New York staple – dating back to the days of Notorious BIG and a young Jay Z, who would who would buy a fresh pair every Saturday and sign his old ones for the sales assistant to keep – while on the West Coast, Dickies have long been the go-to choice of workwear for rappers, an extension of the style favoured by the gangs of Compton and LA. Rap has always maintained a glut of figures who value such qualities, specialising in a particular brand of steeliness. It has a purpose and a grit about it, projecting these values through tough fabrics and utilitarian pockets.
Workwear has almost always provided the latter. But most rappers are not Young Thug, and could only dream of being 3 Stacks, leaving others to tread the tightrope between flamboyance and a sense of street-level authenticity. There are, of course, outliers – from Slick Rick to Andre 3000 to Young Thug, these are exceptions that prove the rule, who have created their own spaces in which to exist. Much of its aesthetic has been defined by this tension, a subtle push and pull between fierce individuality and not pushing things too far and leaving artists vulnerable to derision. Hip hop has a vast, complex and nuanced sartorial past, but one of its most common and recurring motifs is tension. In The History of Hip Hop Style in Four Brands, which coincides with the A/W18 men’s shows, we look at those brands whose wares or influence continue to resonate. But some brands have left a lasting impact, either stylistically or on how we have come to view hip hop as a driving force within contemporary fashion. To chart each one – often specific to regions or neighbourhoods, or trends with limited lifespans – would be impossible. Each epoch of this subculture turned de facto pop culture has come with its own host of styles and labels. Today you will still see everyone from farmers to railroad workers sporting Carhartt during their working day, with the company going from strength to strength developing innovative new design features to their timeless styles.Whether it’s Gucci and Louis Vuitton riffing on the work of Dapper Dan, or the contemporary streetwear labels building on the foundations of early pioneers like Stüssy and X-LARGE, hip hop’s influence on how we dress in undeniable, and fittingly, impactful. Multiple depressions in the USA throughout the 1920s and 30s took their toll on the brand, but Carhartt endured due to their superior design, manufacturing and longevity which made them the preferred choice for the workers of the world. By 1925 Hamilton opened factories across the globe, the UK included.Įven back in 1925, the modern Carhartt we know and love was beginning to form, with the 'Hamilton Carhartt Junior – Manufacturer' subsidiary which focused on making shirts, jeans, shoes and outerwear for young men working blue collar jobs.
LA HAINE CARHARTT HOODIE MANUAL
Doing what any good business owner should Hamilton took a walk down to his local railway station and asked the workers there what they really wanted from their workwear.Īltering his designs to match their feedback was a recipe for success and Carhartt quickly became the choice amongst manual workers. And Hamilton Carhartt's garment business is struggling to gain traction with the local workers of Detroit, Michigan.